November 19, 2012

Fringe Off The Forehead

I, as most people in Vancouver, don't enjoy what rain does to my hair, so when spring finally comes I'm thrilled! When the temperature warms up I enjoy the option to have my fringe (bangs) off my face. If wearing my fringe off my forehead (with my hair still down) I pick one of two styles. Both styles can be worn with your hair all back or just your fringe put back.

"The Mini Bump"
(this isn't technically the name for this style but you get the idea)


This style is pretty easy & takes less than a minute. My "bump" usually sits between Ashley Tisdale's (left) and Jessica Alba's (right) approximately 2.5 inches from my front hairline.

How To: Backcomb the section of your hair you want to "bump" starting from your hairline.
Pull back to where you want the "bump' to end.
Still holding the hair with your fingers, smooth out the backcombing gently
Secure by crossing two bobby pins.

Tip: If you want your bump to end at your crown & you dont want to look like Snooki, backcomb your hair until the first inch of your hair (when you hold it up) is matted

"The Side Braid"
(aka the lauren conrad braid)

Probably the one I do more often of the two styles. It's pretty easy once you get the hang of braiding & also takes about a minute. This is just a basic french braid technique that is applied only to the front of your hair. The shortest this style can be done is on hair that covers your ears.

How To: Part your hair to the side, atleast 1.5 inches off center
Brush out any tangles
Using a comb, section your hair from your parting, approx 1.5 inches from your hairline down to you ear, securing the rest of your hair back with a clip or elastic
Work a tiny bit of product (wax, paste or heavier styling cream) between your hands
Divide your section into three equal parts
Pull one of the outer sections to the center crossing over the "middle piece" & repeat with other side
Repeat this step once more
Add hair to the next section to be crossed over
Repeat this step until you have added all the free hair
Braid as normal (continue to cross over)
Using two bobby secure the braid about an inch back from where you stopped being able to add hair
Let the rest of your hair down covering the bobby pins


It might take a few times to get the hang of french braiding your own hair but keep trying, go slow & eventually it'll work out. Also, I find it easier to do it in front of a mirror, however sometimes the mirror confuses people, so if its this is happening try with out a mirror.

Click the links below for youtube tutorials

click here

or click here

......neither of these people are me, however they do give step by step intructions



April 25, 2011

NY Fashion Week Spring 2011 Hair Trends part 4, 5, 6, 7 & 8

As I previously mentioned, I've been away so I haven't been able to  post so I'm catching up. Here are the last of my NY Fashion week spring 2011 trends!

Spring Trend #4: Sleek finish
Plain and simple. Clean part (if you have one) & no fly aways! What you do with the rest of your hair is up to you! 
Tip: If wearing your hair up or down spray a hard-hold quick-dry hairspray over your fly aways (especially focusing around your part) and use the side of the can to smooth out the fly aways!  Using your fingers or a brush can create static and defeat the purpose. You may spray your hair brush to achieve similar result but I find this method works best. Also finishing with a high shimmer shine spray is a great way to exaggerate the smooth look.

Spring Trend #5: Low Ponytails
Also a look seen on the runway in the past, however this trend is a very wearable style. A great trend if you're low maintenance & like your hair off your face. This look is more flattering than all your hair up into a medium to high ponytails and you can keep your parting.
How To:
Spray a liberal amount of working (or lighter hold hair spray) on a boar bristle paddle brush and brush hair into a ponytail. Secure with elastic and finish with hair spay to smooth out the fly aways (trend 4).

This next photo is a more advance pony tail but I LOVE how structured it is!

Spring trend #6: Low Buns
Also another great style if your like hair off your face.  A sleek bun like this takes quite a bit of practice and product. If your looking for a more wearable bun, secure your hair into a low pony tail (like trend 5), twist your hair around the elastic and secure with bobby pins. Keep the sides and top sleek and shiny (trend 4) however leaving any of the pieces that stick out of the bun alone.  This will have "messy on purpose" finish as opposed to an "I just threw my hair up in a bun" look.
Spring Trend #7: Braids!
I LOVE braids. Fish tails, french, or classic. They turn an otherwise simple (or boring) look into something with texture and style. For How To click here.


Spring Trend #8: Medium - Thick Headbands
This isn't really a hair style, however some designers this season have been pairing medium - thick headbands with messy updos which is great if you just can't seem to create that smooth sleek updo.
I love how perfectly everything flows with this model. The model's bun is left messy on purpose to match the relaxed feel of the headband. The orange lipstick and the peach toned blush enhance the vibrant orange headband & the non offensive purple smokey eye add that little bit of cool tone to balance all the warm tones.
 I feel like the hair on this model looks unfinished or there wasn't a firm direction the stylist was going with this. It's got a wet look (like gel normally has, which is great for a smooth finish), curls pinned flat to the crown (which does nothing to enhance volume, and they're unevenly placed) and lastly the random, long, semi wavy, semi straight pieces hanging down really are just awkward.  In my opinion, the hanging pieces would compliment the style better if they were curled to the same size as the curls pinned to the crown so at least everything is cohesive.

April 24, 2011

Shaved Sides

Sorry for the delay of Spring Trends. I'm out of down and all my photos are at home but heres another post to hold you guys over :)

So you've shaved part (or all) of your hair.  Need ideas for what to do next while keeping them short? Try having patterns or shapes put in. Some hair stylist can shave designs into your hair. The best/ worst part about these "tattoos" are they're temporary. There are stylist that specialise in hair tattooing.  I can only do more basic shapes/ tribal lines etc as I don't have the clientele to practice such intricate work however here are some options if you're interested.  Most of the designs on the internet are of men's hair so I'm adding a photo of my own design of a more feminine style.  I'll add a second when i get home of another tattoo design I've done when i get home.











My own designs:  

Model: Kim!

April 21, 2011

NY Fashion Week Spring 2011 Hair Trends part 3

Spring Trend #3: Extreme Side Parting
The sides partings are appropriate for almost all face shapes. The "extreme" refers to partings part the arch of the eye brows.

April 19, 2011

NY Fashion Week Spring 2011 Hair Trends part 2

 
 
Spring Trend # 2: Messy Waves. 
So hot for spring! So easy and care free! Unlike the huge volume in the last post, this style can be taken right off the runway and put into real every day hair.

How to:
If you have straight hair, use a texturizing spray and wrap random uneven sections around a curling iron. Next, rough up the curls with fingers & spray a stronger hold hair spray or spray wax over your hair.
If you have wavy or curly hair, this style is a breeze! If you're starting from wet hair, add a texturizing cream, scrunch it into your hair, twist small pieces into buns if you want more definition & allow to dry. Add a medium - firm hold hairspray or spray wax all over and scrunch and separate some of your curls.

Tip: (for both straight & wavy hair) The more you rough up with your fingers ad layer with spray, the more

 Celebrities wearing messy waves:

 

Cosmo's 5 Things A Stylist Won't Tell You

I came across an article in Cosmopolitan Magazine and I was shocked and a little offended by the article. This post is my opinion to clarify what cosmo's "hair experts" have said.  I can't speak for all the other stylist out there but I like to think I'm an honest and open professional and have no issue talking/explaining/ recommending anything to the guests in my chair.  This includes products, styling tips, alternative hair cuts that will be more flattering, how often you should be coming in, ways to cut costs etc.


COSMO: 1. You don't need to get highlights every time you get your hair done.
The reality is if your hair has been highlighted every time its been colored, the chances of overlapping and over processing are greater than not. Try breaking your base instead of highlights when it's time for your color touch ups. That way, you'll give your hair a small break while saving money and looking color fresh.
ME: True.  However, this also depends on how often you come into the salon.  If you come once a month for a trim you can skip an appointment or two before you need your highlights touched up.  I personally recommend your highlights should be retouched every 6 - 12 weeks or 1.5 to 3 inches of regrowth to maintain the look.  The main factors that decide how often you need to retouch are how fast your hair grows and how light you are compared to your natural colour.  If your hair grows really fast you need to come in sooner.  If you have naturally dark hair & you get a full head of back light blonde highlights youre going to look rediculous with more than 1.5 - 3 inches of regrowth.  If the reason you're wanting to skip high light appointments is cost, most salons offer 1/2 head & 3/4 head prices. These save you a bit of time & money.  You can start with a full head then 6 - 12 weeks later get a 1/2 head. For the appointment following that, get a 3/4 head. Lastly 6- 8 weeks youre back to a full head.  If you come to the salon for a trim or two in between highlight appointments, you can always have a toner or colour gloss put over your highlights to keep them looking fresh!



 COSMO: 2. Skipping conditioning treatments at the salon is totally fine.
Conditioning treatments aren't bad, especially on damaged hair, however, over conditioning with expensive treatments can sometimes leave you with a big bill at check out time. Try requesting the moisturizing conditioners that are complimentary with your shampoo and ask to be sit under the dryer for 5 to 10 minutes. Compare to see if there's a real difference in the way your hair feels after.
ME: This is only partially true. There are many types of conditioning treatments. Some target damage from heat styling or environmental stressers, others target damage from chemicals. There are treatments designed to soften unruley or age weakened hair.  All treatments add shine to your hair which is always a plus.  Now skipping conditioning treatments at the salon is fine if your hair is in good condition. There is no such thing as "over conditioning."  If your hair is in good condition treat yourself every now and then to an in-salon treatment to add shine and maintain strong healthy hair. Now if your hair isn't in impecable condition, why wouldn't you want to work towards getting there? If cost is an issue, have one done every second or third service. One treatment is better than no treatments & also use a deep conditioning treatment at home once a week can really make a difference in the health of your hair.  As for putting regular conditioner under the dryer, this does nothing.  Technically heat opens the cuticle and the conditioner will go inside, however as regular conditioner is not forumlated to be heat activated so it just comes right out when you rinse.  Instead try a moisture-based heat-activated blow dry lotion.  This will moisturize your hair as it protects from heat styling.


3. It's OK to mix expensive and cheapo products.
Just because you love a high-end shampoo with a double-digit price tag doesn't mean you have to use the same brand of conditioner, hairspray, serum, etc. Your stylist might try to push the whole line on you, saying they work best together, but it's totally fine to save cash by splurging on one haircare item and hitting the drugstore for the rest.
ME: FALSE! Technically yes, you could use a high end salon shampoo and a drug store conditioner. Your hair won't catch fire or anything, but there is basically no point in using the shampoo then.  Products you get from the drugstore contain less concentrated versions of salon products.  They use salt (which swells the product so it takes up more space & dries your hair out) and wax fillers to make up the difference.  If you use drug store conditioner after professional quality shampoo you're basically putting a wax coating on your hair and when you shampoo your hair, the good stuff cant fully or penetrate at all.  Also if you try this method you'll likely be shampooing 2 or 3 times to get a good cleanse just to get some of the wax off. Why bother wasting your good shampoo. If youre really wanting to save money you can use a high end salon brand shampoo and follow with a cheaper salon brand conditioner. Always stick with the same type, so volume with volume, repair with the same type of repair, colour save with colour save etc. My best advice though would be use a cheaper salon brand shampoo and conditioner from the same product line and buy a deep conditioner from a high price point.  The condtioning mask will be used once a week or once every two weeks so you wont go through it as fast but you're still getting the great benefits of your favourite brands product.
**Also, if it says salon quality and you've never seen it in a salon, its not a salon product**



4. Your hair won't grow faster if you trim it.
But the truth is your hair won't look as good as you're growing it out if you let too much time lapse between cuts. So just be sure to tell your stylist you want it to grow longer — that way she can trim only a little bit to keep it healthy, but she'll know to preserve as much of the length as possible.
ME: Ahhh the good old to trim or not to trim. TRUE. It won't make your hair grow faster, but it will keep your hair from breaking.  If your hair is damaged and you're not willing to lose all the length it takes to clean up the ends, get trims regularily.  Get your hair trimmed every 6 weeks and take your hair up to that length you're comfortable with.  Keep trimming it until the breakage/ damage from higher up catch up and are cut off.  Once the healthy catch up, your hair will grown longer & still maintain it's health. No one likes long damaged breaking hairs. Long healthy hair is always great though!
 

5. You don't have to shampoo your hair every day if it's curly or wavy.
The "wash and wear" haircut and the daily shampoo are really only needed if you have really fine hair. If your hair is wavy or curly, it tends to be a little drier, so you really shouldn't shampoo every day.
ME: TRUE! You dont need to wash (shampoo) your hair everyday! Straight, fine, coarse, curly, wavy; you dont need to wash your hair every day!!!! Shampoo, even moisturizing shampoos, gently cleanse the hair by opening the cuticle. By shampooing daily, you open the cuticle so often that some of your hairs' natural moisture is lost.  If you work out alot/ get sweaty, please still shower. Just rinse your hair really well. You can massage your scalp with out shampoo & follow with conditioner on your ends. If you have fine hair & its above the collar bones you likely dont need condtioner (it might be too heavy for your hair) or condtion every other wash (or if you rinse and just need that extra hydration). If your hair is coarse and/ or curly you can leave it longer.  Just rinse & condition to keep the texture feeling soft & hydrated. Dry curls will be frizzy and gross. 

Hopefully this post will help carify Cosmo statements. We, as stylists, are people too sometimes we forget to mention things, so if no one has every told you, we aren't trying to leave you out of the loop! Don't feel like your stylist is lying to you.  If you have a question, ask! If you aren't sure about something, ask!  Also, please keep in mind that Cosmopolitan Magazine's ad space (that is hair related) is bought by drugstore brand products.  From a busiess stand point why would the only promote professional products in their articles? They would lose alot of business.

April 18, 2011

NY Fashion Week Spring 2011 Hair Trends

So I've decided to spread these trends over a couple post so check back every day for a new trend / tip :)






Spring Trend # 1: Volume. Lots of it.
Yes okay.  I do realise volume is always in. Most people don't like flat hair, if you enjoy little to no body this will be a trend you want to skip.  The first two photos are on the more extreme side of volume however the last photo is a little more realistic for everyday.  Volume adds that fullness & that oomph to your hair that it wouldn't naturally have.  If you have or are wearing your hair wavy you can back comb your hair a little fuller & a little more on the sides to widen it.  If your wearing your hair on the straight I would avoid excessive volume as the hair just hangs straight down & will look mop-like.

Inspiration for straighter hair styles:
Inspiration for wavy hair styles:

 This one is a little much but I LOVE how much body and movement the hair has.

This is more of a realistic everyday look. I like this look because it looks like she's put effort into her hair but hasn't spent hours in the salon to achieve this look.